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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble on: March 22, 2010, 08:24:36 PM
ScottM
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« on: March 22, 2010, 08:24:36 PM »







The Gila river runs between Kelvin and Florence, cutting through some of the most amazing country I have ever laid tire on -- from rhyolite cliffs to deep saguaro studded canyons, singletrack to freeride rock mesas and brutal roads.  I dreamed up a loop that would comprise all of the 'goods' the area has to offer, and it seemed like the perfect weekend for it.  Abundant winter rains and a March warming trend made me think the desert might -- just might -- be in its prime.  Only one way to find out.

I finished my last revision to the dissertation at 9pm on Friday night.  Exhausted with the computer, I quickly wrapped up the GPX track, studied a bit, then went to start packing.  Things came together very well -- there's really not much you can bring on a 2 day bikepacking trip. 

I met Lee for breakfast at Bobo's, where we proceeded to fill our guts with the greasy but oh-so-good food.  That breakfast would power us well past lunch. 

A quick drive to Kelvin and we were on our way, crossing the Gila and making a B-line for new Arizona Trail.







It wasn't long before we were surrounded by all sorts of colorful things.













The rain's effect was impressive, with knee high grasses/flowers and obscured tread in places.







I was giggling as the bright colors whisked by on the sides of the trail.  "My eyes are starting to hurt..." says Lee.













So well constructed, it's almost effortless to ride.  And I think about five people have ever ridden it.













There was a veritable berm of grass and flowers on the outside edge of the trail.  It might not do much to actually keep your tire on the trail, but visually it made riding fast that much more tempting.

And so I did.





photo by Lee Blackwell


Some of the side drains were running, even though the last storm was 1.5 weeks ago.  So we decided to skip the trip up Walnut Canyon to the artesian well (aka bubbly spring), instead exploring the future AZT corridor closer to the river. 

It went well at times, and other times we hunched to get under trees, fought through sharp brush and hopped fences.  Lee and Scott, back to their usual tom foolery.  I think there is a viable route through most of it, but the 3 foot high grasses were obscuring everything, making trail sniffing that much more difficult.  It was fun to roll for miles through the grass, leaving a trampled little 'trail' with our tires.  Though it was a little unnerving as sometimes there were branches or pits hidden in the grass.







Eventually we hit a pinch point on the river and were forced to gain elevation, bushwhack style.  We happened upon very fresh AZT flagging and stakes, taking us to a tiny pass in the cliff above the river.  I don't think they will be able to build rideable trail here, but I look forward to seeing how it goes.  We fought the worst brush of the trip to get out of there, and sighed in relief as we reached a legit road.

We had saved ourselves several thousand feet of climbing, but our route was no faster.  It was more about exploring something new than saving time or energy, so we were all smiles as we turned away from the river to finally pay the climbing piper.







Epic roads, leading to epic scenery.













A number of the climbs are solid rock, meaning that as long as you've got the power, you've got the traction.  Normally I'd be spinning up in 20x36, but I kept it in 20x30.  And it felt good.

"Man, it's taken me about 2 hours just to catch up to you!" says the driver of a jeep, beer hanging out the window in his hand.

I short circuited another driver's brain when I answered where we had come from.  After twitching his head he answered, "but... whaaa... Kelvin?  On a jeep trail!?  How?"

We got passed by a few more, and were pitied by several, but bikepackers get to see so much more and have so few limitations.  I didn't envy a single one of them as they "sped" up the hill, leaving us in the dust.







I felt so spoiled by the availability of water, the pleasant temps, the electric green, the wild flowers, my new bike, and just the general feeling of being a bikepacker, rolling through the landscape as the sun lowers, without a care and with the freedom to sneak off and camp just about anywhere we please... ready to continue the ride come morning.







Put differently, evenings like this make me happy just to be alive.







We descended out of Martinez, over to Box Canyon and were amazed by the steady flow of water rushing down between the cliff walls.  I thought about Jonesy, wrapping up the AZT 300 over a week ago.  The water might have been hub deep for him!

After splashing around and craning our heads to catch glimpses of sky and cliff, we spied a small side grotto that looked perfect for a rest.  We threw out the sleeping bags, got a little fire going and boiled some water for our freeze dried meals.  Once properly rehydrated, we toasted the meals in honor of our good friend Mike Curiak.  Mike would be eating, that night, his last of over twenty freeze dried dinners, camping for a final night before making the push to Nome and the completion of his epic Iditarod trip.  And here we were, not even wearing jackets, and with warm hands, two hours after sunset.  It was the best camping I've done in a long time.

I laid down and popped my headphones in my ears.  I love listening to music, at night, while camping in a quiet place.  You can crank the volume down and still hear all the nuances in the music.  As the beats and textures ran through my skull I played over the events of the day and tried to process all the visuals and feelings.  It was a good day, and I drifted off to sleep after a few tunes and a few shooting stars.

Day 2 to come.
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #1 on: March 22, 2010, 11:11:30 PM
Rob


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« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2010, 11:11:30 PM »

You're living the good life Scott! Keep it up Smiley
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #2 on: March 23, 2010, 06:56:59 AM
AZTtripper
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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2010, 06:56:59 AM »

Looks sweet I need to get up that way again soon.
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #3 on: March 23, 2010, 12:18:45 PM
wookieone


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« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2010, 12:18:45 PM »

Damn, that is some gorgeous stuff.....thanks Jefe
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the impossible just hurts more...
pedaling is my prozac...

https://jwookieone.com/colorado-trail-race/9667-2/

  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #4 on: March 23, 2010, 12:45:00 PM
MattySF


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« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2010, 12:45:00 PM »

Great photos very inspiring. Looking foreward to the rest.
Thanks.
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Gone Campin!!

  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #5 on: March 23, 2010, 03:42:51 PM
intheways


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« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2010, 03:42:51 PM »

Excellent!  Thanks for posting!
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #6 on: March 23, 2010, 08:20:11 PM
ScottM
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« Reply #6 on: March 23, 2010, 08:20:11 PM »







It was hard to contain my excitement upon waking up and realizing where I was.  A descent of Box Canyon was in my future, followed by pleasant riding all the way to Area 52! 







I went all out on this trip, bringing fuel for hot chocolate and oatmeal for breakfast.







We filtered water from the Box, then proceeded to coast down into the labyrinth. 

A few people were camped near the entrance to the box, but most were still sleeping.  We made our way along the river to the diversion dam, which was stealing most of the flow.  There was a small channel that we crossed before pushing our bikes up the embankment, now heading back along the south bank of the Gila.

I've always been puzzled at the proliferation of ATV trails south of the river.  Today I found myself riding many of the alternates -- they are there to avoid mud pits.  And not just any mud pits, these were impressively goopy and persistent.  The kind of mud you don't want anywhere near your bike if you can avoid it.







After a half dozen steep mud detours we ascended away from the river, into the dry morning air.  Birds were a tweetin', bees a swarmin' and pedals a crankin'.  All the makings of a perfect day.







In the shadow of South Butte, we turned off the rocky road, crossed a drainage and emerged on the white rock.  This ramp would grant us access to Area 52.





photo by Lee Blackwell


"Excited" doesn't begin to explain how it felt to be there.  I didn't know how well we would be able to cover the inherently difficult riding on the mesa, camping gear and all.  But my new bike absolutely slayed it.  I felt blissfully comfortable out there.  I forgot for some time that I was riding a "loaded" bike.







This was Lee's first Area 52 experience.  It was fun to show him all the moves and curiosities along the way.







For the most part, it shows itself.

Lee did really well, though he pointed out, "I can't seem to read the terrain like you do."  I told him it took me several trips out here to really get a grasp on what's rideable, and what is not.  We rolled out past the anvil, the keyhole and down to the waterfall.  The waterfall held a giant pool of water at its base, and a tiny trickle.  Plenty for a bikepacker, but we didn't need any.







We made our exit off the main mesa by way of the waterfall's side channel.  Pushing our bikes onto the upper slopes of the east mesa was a challenge that bordered on climb-a-bike at times.  My memory of the rideable lines out here is a little fuzzy.

Lee was a good sport about it.  No doubt freeriding through Area 52 was not the most efficient way to get where we were going, but I think he really enjoyed seeing it.







From the solid rock we dropped into the wide sandy flats of Donnelly wash, where we went into search mode for a 2 track that I had found in TopoFusion and that we had verified from high on Area 52.  It seemed obvious from above, but proved harder to find down in the trees.







The next 10 miles were all new to me, and were jaw droppingly beautiful.







The road snaked up a small ridgeline, around the shoulder of Gray Back (where many an interesting rock formation tempted my tires). All the while it offered stellar views of the gnarly and beautiful terrain on the other side of the river -- where we had been riding yesterday.







We rejoined the Arizona Trail just as it swoops its way down into Ripsey wash.  We were both losing ourselves in the trail, blowing right by the 'bathtub' spring at first.  The pipe was running (woo!) so we filled a couple bottles and proceeded on.







The infamous "big hill" switchbacks loomed on the horizon, but we weren't intimidated.  We knew the rewards that await at the top.  And for some strange reason, it wasn't hot.  Just warm enough to make you think about it, until the next breeze comes along.







I think I may have the perfect bikepacking bike.  I can't believe how much of a difference small changes in my setup have made. 







It was nice to feel the flush of a good climbing effort in the post equinox sun.  We sat down for a break at the top.







Then there was nothing to do but gobble up sweet ridgeline trail.













Time seems to stand still as you float and carve your way along this pleasantly vague trail.







Until you hit the megaton switchback attack, where you really have to pay attention to stay on the trail.  I think a single motorcycle had ridden the trail and blown a bunch of new rocks into most of the switchback platforms.  It just made them that much more challenging and fun, though, and I managed to get most of them... smile growing wider with each one.

You can see in the above photo how orange the hill opposite the switchbacks is.  Why?







Poppies, of course!  We were a little early for flowers on upper Ripsey, but there was no shortage on the lower slopes. 

Like all good things, the descent and trail came to its end.  We had closed the loop with a couple hours of daylight to spare.  We both agreed the loop was the perfect 2 day bikepack -- not too much riding, not too little.  A nice combination of singletrack, exploration, 4x4 roads, free ride rock and incredible scenery.







All that remained was to fill the void in our stomachs... at Mammoth's La Casita (some of the best Mexican food anywhere).







Lee spotted a sign "cones - $1" as we were leaving.  The combination of the warm Ripsey climb and the heat of the salsa on our tongues made it so there was really no decision to be made.  The cones disappeared before we made Oracle.

I think this trip may happen again, perhaps next weekend.  I can't see why not!
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #7 on: April 01, 2010, 11:31:37 AM
b1gp0ppy


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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2010, 11:31:37 AM »

are you going to post the route in the route section dude?
keith
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #8 on: April 01, 2010, 03:36:34 PM
ScottM
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« Reply #8 on: April 01, 2010, 03:36:34 PM »

Yep.  This is definitely a route worth repeating...

In fact, that's exactly what I did last weekend -- repeat it! Or, well, try.  Report on Gila River Ramble Reverse, featuring, GRRR a broken frame, to come...
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #9 on: April 02, 2010, 09:12:11 AM
Carney


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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2010, 09:12:11 AM »

Very nice!  thumbsup
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #10 on: April 02, 2010, 11:16:45 AM
ScottM
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« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2010, 11:16:45 AM »

are you going to post the route in the route section dude?
keith


GPX data and some route details available now:

http://www.bikepacking.net/routes/gila-river-ramble/
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #11 on: April 02, 2010, 11:17:52 AM
ScottM
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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2010, 11:17:52 AM »

Last weekend's Gila River Ramble bikepacking loop was so good that I had to do it again.  It was spring break for Chad and he's got bikepacking on the brain.  So we set off to pedal, take in the scenery / greenery, and enjoy this beautiful AZ spring.







Except this time we rode in reverse, which meant climbing up Ripsey, amidst a sea of flowers.





photo by Chad Brown


I was anxious to see how all the switchbacks would go in the other direction.  We made it interesting by keeping "score."  Winner gets a free $1 ice cream cone at La Casita, so there was big money on the line.







I got a lead early on, which grew to as much as four switchbacks.  But Chad knocked it down to two by the end, making several that I flubbed on.  













Going the other direction meant more time along the ridgeline, more time to soak in the views...







... definitely a good thing.







It's hard not to notice the loaded bike when climbing in granny gear.  But I'm still continually amazed by how lightweight a comfortable setup is, and how little it affects handling and the ability to ride challenging trail.  10 years ago I would have never believed I could pedal up a trail like Ripsey with camping gear and food/water for two days.







The plunge off Ripsey was a hoot, over in a heartbeat compared to how long it takes to climb it.  







Chad found himself a tough B-line, and then found himself on the ground, laughing before he came to a stop.

"Snake!  Snake! .... Snake!  What part of snake don't you understand!?"

It's been so long since I've seen one that my snake detector is offline.  I finally spotted the rattler ahead and came to a skidding stop a few feet before it.  It was not happy with me at that point, but patience is the best course.  It moved off into the brush.





photo by Chad Brown


We found some fun B-lines on the drop down to Area 52.  A good warmup for the rocklustre awaiting us.





photo by Chad Brown


As if this road didn't have enough going for it, from the flowers to the knockout views and green green grasses with saguaros popping out of them.











photo by Chad Brown


We took a different approach to Area 52, where Chad totally outclimbed me.  I was afraid of tipping over backwards.  Sometimes it's hard to fight that fear.  







Unfortunately, spanking the chutes would be the last impressive thing Chad's bike would do.

"Oh, dude, my frame is cracked."  His downtube was cracked on both sides, almost all the way around.  We could see it opening just by putting his weight on the bike.  Un fracaso epic (epic failure), in the middle of a bikepacking trip, at the start of spring break and at Area 52 of all places!

We debated options for a few minutes.  But with only a few hours of daylight and sitting on one of the most amazing and hardest to reach mountain bike playgrounds anywhere.... well, there was only one thing that made sense:





photo by Chad Brown


Go ride, of course!!!







My bike, that is.







While one of us rode, the other handled the line spotting, heckling and photo geekery.







It actually worked out pretty well.  It was fun to hike/jog around the mesa sans bike, and every time it was "my" turn I was super stoked to be riding again.













I could tell Chad was seeing 'the light' out there, and that was cool to see.  







He's been overdue for a visit to 52, and despite a cracked frame, he got a good tour and a glimpse at all the potential out there.













Line spotting.  Sun falling.







Remind me that I need to spend more evenings out here.  Simply brilliant.







Eventually the sun faded, so we made our way to the moonscape campsite where Paula and I spent the holidays.







It was a warm, still night.  Perfect for camping.

The big unknown was how long Chad's frame would last.  We didn't really have a plan, but it seemed pretty clear that we needed to start heading back, and that the brutal 4x4 roads of Box/Martinez/Battle Axe were out.  I thought about continuing the loop solo, but didn't want to leave Chad walking for miles either.  So I was thinking about riding Ripsey again or perhaps going out and back on the AZT down by the Gila River.  

Regardless, tomorrow promised more beautiful spring weather, flowers, good riding and good company.  So all was well as I did some moonlight yoga, then drifted off to sleep, trying to ignore the giant spotlight of the moon.
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #12 on: April 02, 2010, 11:19:57 AM
ScottM
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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2010, 11:19:57 AM »

It was hard not to be excited, waking up in the middle of Area 52.  I was anxious for the sun to come up, so I could take in 'the place' again, and also so we could ride once more.







Then I remembered that a broken frame meant plans had changed.  It didn't make sense to proceed with the route, given how abusive certain sections are.  For all we knew the frame may fail even with "smooth" riding, so we turned tail and headed towards the car, rather than away from it.

But first we had to make our way through the lower slopes of Area 52.  Chad had to baby it and walk in places, I still had free reign to sample a few more rockalicious lines, camping gear and all.







Soon enough we were on smoother surfaces, once again marveling at the in-your-face life of the desert, and the fantastic views.  After we had rolled fifteen or so miles it seemed like Chad's frame was going to hold up to moderate mountain biking, so we jumped at the opportunity to explore something new. 







No need to check the GPS, just roll on.  I let Chad do his thing, following as powerlines led to washes, to 2 tracks to surprisingly sweet cow singletrack, then finally to bushwhacking through flowers!  It was too fun!

I almost didn't believe my brain when Chad turned a lever and water came gushing out, starting to fill a small tank.  Score!

We popped out on Florence Kelvin Road just above the ranch, and since Chad's frame was still in one piece, we hopped across the river and sought Arizona Trail.







The AZT runs along the north bank of the Gila River, through some very remote and rarely seen country.  Lee and I started our trip last weekend with this section, and it was new to Chad, so we did an out and back on it.







Well worth riding, both on the 'out',







and the 'back.' 







Best flowers I have seen yet this spring!







Full of other desert life, too.  From tiny fleeting greenery to ancient giants.







Close to the same shot as TopoFusion's 2009 splash screen:





(Lighting was better for that one, though.)







It was almost, but not quite, hot out there, at all of 1700 feet.  We were both feeling it a bit, and thinking towards the ice cream cone that Chad owed me for the previous day's Ripsey switchback contest.







A line of solid green!  What a spring.







Curiously, the trail seemed easier and more fun when we turned around.  It wasn't the wind, maybe just the flow of the trail, or the call of La Casita.  I ordered an even better combo plate this time around and topped it off with the swirl cone, putting the capstone on another memorable Gila River Ramble.  We didn't complete the loop as planned, but considering the broken frame, we were able to salvage a heck of a second day.  We still ended up with about 12 hours moving time and over 10,000' of climbing.

So, yeah, good weekend.

The following day Chad and I moved all of his parts onto my old Blue Leviathan.  The blue lev thought it had been retired to 'road bike only' duty, but she goes bikepacking again (see: Chad's excellent adventure).
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  Topic Name: Gila River Ramble Reply #13 on: April 02, 2010, 07:37:09 PM
DaveC


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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2010, 07:37:09 PM »

RIP Orangie!!

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