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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #200 on: January 31, 2017, 07:26:49 AM
Yogi the Barry


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« Reply #200 on: January 31, 2017, 07:26:49 AM »

If you use the regular SP PD-8 hub, you are stuck with a 100mm QR axle. The PD-8X works with either traditional QR or 15mm TA. That hub comes with an aluminum sleeve, which fills up the 15mm bore and has machined ends to to work with a QR.
Boost? I think the problem isn't so much the end caps, but rotor alignment. Re-dishing the wheel may be required, which sucks for bike-to-bike swapping. I think the rotor to rim distance growth is about 3mm.
You could probably machine some spacers as a hack, but you would have to live with a wheel about 3mm off-center, with respect to the rear wheel. That's probably within tolerance for some bikes, but could be an issue with your bike not tracking straight. It would also be a bit of a mental hurdle knowing that your wheels are off-center. Lacking any personal experience with boost wheels, I'm not your expert. However, see this links below to get a bit of insight on the issue...
http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/boostinator
http://enduro-mtb.com/en/tech-talk-whats-the-boost-standard-all-about/

...
Also, does anyone know if the more popular dynamo hubs like Son 28 and SP have the ability to swap out end caps to be able to swap the wheel between forks with normal 100mm spacing vs 110mm boost forks?  My hardtail has 15x100, and I may upgrade my full susp bike, but many seem to come with boost forks now.  A dynamo wheel for each is definitely not in the budget!
...
« Last Edit: January 31, 2017, 07:37:30 AM by Yogi the Barry » Logged

  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #201 on: January 31, 2017, 10:45:11 AM
evdog


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« Reply #201 on: January 31, 2017, 10:45:11 AM »

Thanks Yogi!  I was hoping an adapter kit would work.  But having to re-dish the wheel to swap the front between bikes makes sense and isn't going to work.  If I get a new bike I may have to see if they can swap out the boost fork for non-boost.  Its annoying that some companies are putting boost forks on non-plus bikes.  If it were just a matter of adding/removing a spacer for the disc I could handle that. 
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #202 on: February 02, 2017, 08:21:31 AM
the tortoise


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« Reply #202 on: February 02, 2017, 08:21:31 AM »

How about this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Tools-Adapter-Set-15mm-x-100mm-Front-Hub-15mm-x-110mm-Boost-Fork-/252191498198?hash=item3ab7c8dfd6

I don't see why you would have to redish the wheel?
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #203 on: February 02, 2017, 12:23:02 PM
Yogi the Barry


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« Reply #203 on: February 02, 2017, 12:23:02 PM »

I think wheel dishing is required if you don't shim the rotor. In a perfect world, spinning perfect wheels, there would be no dish at all between the hub flanges. Re-dishing is mentioned in the WolfToothComponents link. I like the eBay kit. Necessity breeds invention... Much more elegant than opting to shim the caliper...
...I don't see why you would have to redish the wheel?
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #204 on: June 07, 2017, 10:33:02 PM
THE LONG RANGER

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« Reply #204 on: June 07, 2017, 10:33:02 PM »

Sorry if I'm reviving this thread -

Any more updates to the following:

* Running a GPS Unit "directly" from the dynamo hub? The Oregon Series of GPS units have a battery pack that can be used in lieu of 2 AA's, and when you connect it to a USB chord, it'll recharge directly from there. I guess the alt. would be to have some sort of USB to AA recharger (is that actually a thing?) Can you do this trick with the eTrex 35t? (I don't think you can...)

* Hubs with some sort of future-proofing. I'm most likely getting a hub for 100mm/QR, but it would be nice to get it to work with 115/thru axle

* Any new lights out there to check out?

* Any new battery packs to check out, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-iPhone-Samsung-Galaxy/dp/B01NBQX0O5
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #205 on: June 08, 2017, 07:43:13 AM
Yogi the Barry


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« Reply #205 on: June 08, 2017, 07:43:13 AM »

SP's PD-8X hub comes with an adapter sleeve with allows it to be used as a traditional 100 mm QR hub. Sliding out the sleeve, it's not held captive at all, allows the hub to be used with a 100 X 15 mm axle. As far as I know, this hub does not work as a Boost hub, without making some end caps and shimming the rotor... or a combination of that if you don't mind a wheel off-center by ~3mm.
Sorry if I'm reviving this thread -
...
* Hubs with some sort of future-proofing. I'm most likely getting a hub for 100mm/QR, but it would be nice to get it to work with 115/thru axle
...
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #206 on: June 08, 2017, 10:36:14 AM
THE LONG RANGER

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« Reply #206 on: June 08, 2017, 10:36:14 AM »

Thanks for the reply!

Looking at, https://www.kliteusa.net/product-page/klite-backpacker-pro-light-1200-700lm-w-standlite

I'm scoobied at the choices.

If I'm running a PD/Shim. hub, it seems that I would want to choose, "Light only SP/Shim", but there is another choice, "Light AND USB". What the heck is that other choice about? I would like to run this with a switch to be able to hook this up with a USB charger. I *think* that switch is sold separately, and the USB charge is most def. sold separately.

I emailed them, and their response was to choose, "light and USB" - am I missing something important for a SP/Shim choice?

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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #207 on: June 08, 2017, 12:29:17 PM
Yogi the Barry


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« Reply #207 on: June 08, 2017, 12:29:17 PM »

I'm pretty sure that almost all the hubs output about the same power. There are differences, but not much to be of practical concern.
Here's the issue with any dynamo hub system, how the varying output impacts your device(s). If it's a light, you speed-up to eventually reach a turn-on threshold and then the light eventually hits its max output. Go below the turn-on threshold, and the light either turns-off or the light slowly fades if it has a built in buffer/capacitor. I have an Exposure Revo, which has a few minutes of reserve capacity, but any extended HAB or slow grinding climb below 5-6 MPH and light essentially becomes too dim. Solution, I switch on my helmet light for sustained HAB. Even with my eyes, with lenses starting to cloud a bit, you need much less light to HAB vs. bike.
Other electronic devices do not like this threshold cycling [GPS, SPOT, phones, etc.]. It's like constantly plugging-in and unplugging your phone charger. The way to get around this? Either never ride slow [yeah, right] or store the dynamo's sporatic output into a battery pack of some type. Unless you are riding very fast, you can't power a device [like a light] and a battery pack at the same time. However, you can do something like charge a battery pack during the day and then use the dynamo to directly run your light at night. At night, you can charge and/or run other devices with the battery pack. You may not be able to totally go without spare batteries, but this technique can extend the run times of your other GPS/phone devices.
There are many ways to come up with a dynamo system. When I got into this, the main reason I got a dynamo was to have a reliable night riding light, which didn't depend on batteries. I guess my primal fear was running my night light dead and getting caught, attacked, eaten by the boogie man.
Powering other [than light] devices? After trying a USB charger to directly charge a helmet light [BD Revolt] and/or a small battery pack, I've mostly side-stepped the issue by using an 18650 helmet light [Fenix FD30?] and a small charger for the 18650 batteries. It's hard to beat the storage capacity of the 18650 cell. They can store something like 3500 mAh. The Fenix light will run an honest 10 hours at the 150 Lumen setting, which is enough for many nights of setting up a camping and HAB in the dark, when the dynamo light has faded. I've given up on trying to charge/power my SPOT, eTrex GPS and iPhone. I just carry spare batts for the SPOT3 and eTrex. The phone - I dumb-down to airplane mode and just use as my camera or emergency phone. I top-off the charge when I go in and out of civilization.
Edit: Three more comments...
1 - For bikepacking the K-Lite's 1200 Lumen might be overkill. 500-800 is more than enough for loaded bike speeds [However, for 24-hr endurance races, 1200 is nice. Power corrupts and more is never enough.].
2 - Easiest way to extend the battery life on the eTrex 20/30 is to really try and avoid using the backlight. I illuminate the screen of my eTrex by aiming a LED light I rigged up to run off the 5V USB tail light port of the Revo [a long story. Search for my post on that.]
3 - Latest generation SPOT [3?] has a much longer battery life than the previous generation.

Thanks for the reply!
Looking at, https://www.kliteusa.net/product-page/klite-backpacker-pro-light-1200-700lm-w-standlite
I'm scoobied at the choices.

If I'm running a PD/Shim. hub, it seems that I would want to choose, "Light only SP/Shim", but there is another choice, "Light AND USB". What the heck is that other choice about? I would like to run this with a switch to be able to hook this up with a USB charger. I *think* that switch is sold separately, and the USB charge is most def. sold separately.

I emailed them, and their response was to choose, "light and USB" - am I missing something important for a SP/Shim choice?


« Last Edit: June 08, 2017, 12:34:50 PM by Yogi the Barry » Logged

  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #208 on: June 08, 2017, 12:47:32 PM
THE LONG RANGER

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« Reply #208 on: June 08, 2017, 12:47:32 PM »

Thanks for your thoughts, Yogi!

Dynamos are a pretty BIG leap in terms of price tag to get things set up, and it's a little daunting: you got the hub, wheel built around it, the light, the light/usb the switcher box, the usb power thingy, the battery - whoa! That adds up!

I've been pretty happy with my Fenix light, and just grabbing batteries, but I'd like to not use so many batteries, for long-term costs (which may be hard to break even in < year!), always-on light, and the ability to charge things without needing to go to town would be awesome!

I'm still stopped in my tracks on just WTF the differences in the options at:

https://www.kliteusa.net/product-page/klite-backpacker-pro-light-1200-700lm-w-standlite

*are*. I'm guessing that I'd be good with, "Light and USB"

The two other choices just confuse the heck outta me.


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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #209 on: June 08, 2017, 01:24:48 PM
Yogi the Barry


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« Reply #209 on: June 08, 2017, 01:24:48 PM »

Yeah, ka-ch$ng!
BTW, the 18650 battery is a Li-ion rechargeable. It's probably the most common standardized battery type and is used in notebook battery packs. Seems to be a lot more common in Europe as a drop-in battery, compared to the US and its fixation with AA/AAA sizes. A disposable replacement for one 18650 is a stacked pair of CR123 batteries.
Good luck wading thru all your choices. I currently have my purchasing blinders on...
Thanks for your thoughts, Yogi!
...
Dynamos are a pretty BIG leap in terms of price tag to get things set up, and it's a little daunting: you got the hub, wheel built around it, the light, the light/usb the switcher box, the usb power thingy, the battery - whoa! That adds up!
...
I've been pretty happy with my Fenix light, and just grabbing batteries, but I'd like to not use so many batteries, for long-term costs (which may be hard to break even in < year!), always-on light, and the ability to charge things without needing to go to town would be awesome!
...
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #210 on: June 09, 2017, 06:33:45 PM
bumbler


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« Reply #210 on: June 09, 2017, 06:33:45 PM »

I guess the alt. would be to have some sort of USB to AA recharger (is that actually a thing?)

There's the MintyBoost, if I understand what you're thinking of - https://www.adafruit.com/product/14

I've built one (construction isn't difficult if you're handy with a soldering iron) and it works well with my phone (Andriod); can't speak to iPhones. It works well for emergency powering/charging a phone, but carrying/buying multiple sets of AAs would be heavy & costly.
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #211 on: June 09, 2017, 07:19:02 PM
THE LONG RANGER

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« Reply #211 on: June 09, 2017, 07:19:02 PM »

There's the MintyBoost, if I understand what you're thinking of - https://www.adafruit.com/product/14

I've built one (construction isn't difficult if you're handy with a soldering iron) and it works well with my phone (Andriod); can't speak to iPhones. It works well for emergency powering/charging a phone, but carrying/buying multiple sets of AAs would be heavy & costly.

Nope - just something I can charge AA's with, from the Dynamo via the USB interface. (Gawd, this gets complicated to talk about!).

Funnily, they now have a charger that does BOTH:

https://www.fenix-store.com/fenix-are-x2-dual-channel-smart-charger/

I think a Lithium battery pack like Anker et al provide would be a much better idea than charging rechargable AA's, to then charge... other batteries though, but maybe as a... backup? Seems silly.

There's a few types of batteries I hope to be able to charge up: AA's, AAA's, and the battery in the Petzel NAO head torch, which is basically a 18650 with its own proprietary electronics - the torch itself has a USB plug in it. AA's are for the eTrex, AAA's are for the SPOT. So getting just a AA/AAA USB interface charger should be all I need. (and uh, a Lithium battery pack).

I believe I can run the SPOT direct from the Dynamo -> USB thing, but from what I read, it's probably more practical to run the SPOT via the  Lithium battery pack, if needed.

I WISH I could run/charge the eTrex through the battery pack the same way, but I don't believe the eTrex has that capability. From what I've read, the Oregon models DO. The newer Oregon models are a tad more expensive than an eTrex, so I don't I'll go for one. I just lost my eTrex though, so I'm contemplating between an eTrex 35t and an Oregon 600t - an older version, but still highly recommended that you can get for cheap. Their specs. are *so close*.

Still a bit of money just to say, "hey I didn't need to buy batteries!" (all that much...), unless you're committed for the long haul. I'm car-free and have for a WHILE, so it's not like I'll hang up the bikepacking bike after this summer and say, "Fun, but we're done until next summer!". All this gear is gonna be used all year 'round!  headbang Sticker price, though.
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #212 on: June 10, 2017, 06:51:58 PM
bmike-vt


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« Reply #212 on: June 10, 2017, 06:51:58 PM »

You should be able to top off the Nao from the dynamo with the right interface. I use a USBwerk and I've run the etrex, kept a gorpo topped off, and charged my exposure diablo (not all at once).


FWIW, I'd run the SPOT and etrex off AAs, and I'd top off the Nao (I really love mine, awesome kit!), phone, etc. from the dyno. You are a beast though - so charging other lights / batteries might work well for you. Otherwise I'd just top off a limefuel or similar to keep the phone topped off or to run the etrex / etc. As required.
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #213 on: June 10, 2017, 06:53:19 PM
bmike-vt


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« Reply #213 on: June 10, 2017, 06:53:19 PM »

I think it's a bad idea to run the spot from the dyno. The garmin can work. You can't charge it but you can delay the draw down depending on the kit you have. Same goes for a GoPro.
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #214 on: June 10, 2017, 06:55:39 PM
bmike-vt


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« Reply #214 on: June 10, 2017, 06:55:39 PM »

Fwiw, I'm running SON on the road machine. Shimano on the bikepacking rig. Exposure Revo on the bikepacking rig with a switch to divert power to the USBwerk. On the road rig in have a luxosU with built in USB converter / cache.
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #215 on: June 10, 2017, 07:03:51 PM
bmike-vt


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« Reply #215 on: June 10, 2017, 07:03:51 PM »

This might work, but when I was researching charging AAs from dyno I remember that folks who had done it weren't happy with how long it took...

http://www.goalzero.com/mobile/p/133/guide-10-plus-recharger
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #216 on: June 10, 2017, 08:16:48 PM
the tortoise


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« Reply #216 on: June 10, 2017, 08:16:48 PM »

I have run my Luxos U for several years now with no complaints. Having a light on all the time is a great safety feature plus with it's USB port you can keep your phone topped off.

My wife wanted one and I found it from Star Bike for only $115 plus shipping. I paid well over $200 for my first one.

Here is the link: http://www.starbike.com/en/busch-mueller-lumotec-iq2-luxos-u/?currency=USD&vat=hide&gclid=CjwKEAjwse7JBRCJ576SqoD7lCkSJABF-bKut8vv81-6PQgX9ppWlm_2JVhFSdC1fMuzpwdr38_odBoCVdTw_wcB
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #217 on: June 10, 2017, 09:09:43 PM
THE LONG RANGER

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« Reply #217 on: June 10, 2017, 09:09:43 PM »

This might work, but when I was researching charging AAs from dyno I remember that folks who had done it weren't happy with how long it took...

http://www.goalzero.com/mobile/p/133/guide-10-plus-recharger


I've been a little underwhelmed with most of Goal Zero's offerings. They def. have beautiful design and snazzy marketing, but all the gear seems 1+ generations behind their competitors like, https://www.anker.com/ if I'm to believe the reviews at http://outdoorgearlab.com
« Last Edit: June 10, 2017, 09:17:46 PM by THE LONG RANGER » Logged


  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #218 on: June 10, 2017, 09:17:21 PM
THE LONG RANGER

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« Reply #218 on: June 10, 2017, 09:17:21 PM »

I have run my Luxos U for several years now with no complaints. Having a light on all the time is a great safety feature plus with it's USB port you can keep your phone topped off.

My wife wanted one and I found it from Star Bike for only $115 plus shipping. I paid well over $200 for my first one.

Here is the link: http://www.starbike.com/en/busch-mueller-lumotec-iq2-luxos-u/?currency=USD&vat=hide&gclid=CjwKEAjwse7JBRCJ576SqoD7lCkSJABF-bKut8vv81-6PQgX9ppWlm_2JVhFSdC1fMuzpwdr38_odBoCVdTw_wcB


Nice - I'll have to check that out. There's some pretty nice benefits over Klite's (sweet, I'll add) offerings: B+M has a great rep. and that price is pretty damn good, if I'm reading the description correctly, it includes in the unit:

Light,
Handlebar switch
Cache battery
USB charging option

So instead of buying the 3 sep. components from KLite (Light: 265.00, USB charging thingy: $120.00, Handlebar Switch: $60 (and even battery pack?!), it's all in one?

Seems like the difference of a German-flavored efficient industrial product and the handmade artisanal offering?

I'll have to do my research on that idea, that's a huge cost savings.
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  Topic Name: Hub dynamo and electronics thread. Reply #219 on: June 11, 2017, 12:35:20 AM
cousinmosquito


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« Reply #219 on: June 11, 2017, 12:35:20 AM »

If I wasn't in a big hurry, I would be looking at this.
https://www.sinewavecycles.com/collections/lighting/products/sinewave-cycles-beacon

... or I woud drop Klite Kerry a line and see if he has anything new in the wings, he's always got something on the go.

This is what I started with, but the chinese made 18650 charger/holders are not that robust. On the other hand, neither are any of the power-banks I have heard of so far. They all fail after a while.

http://jeffsbike.blogspot.co.nz/2015/09/dynamo-shizzle-pt-2.html

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