Against all odds it seems, yes I am coming over.

If I have some spare money before the kiwi, I might buy a 20 or 30, otherwise it will be the trusty old 305.

Time is running out for me to get a framebag from a certain supplier, wondering if anyone may have one I could buy (or even borrow) for an event I have in FEbruary.

I already have a tangle bag, but need a full dual compartment framebag for water and stuff.

I know slim chance, but just trying to cover as many bases as possible, few irons in the fire, baskets and eggs and all that

Oh yeah, I'm in Australia.

I know Revelate won't have any stock bags (Salsa units) until mid February, timeline doesn't suit.

Thanks mate, was looking during lunch at our suppliers site but couldn't truly get the facts.

Hmm, wondering if it could also charge or run on hub (SON delux) or solar power (as per the powermonkey/Garmin collabo unit for the 800)

Calling Multisportscott: did you buy one, if so do you think the basemap detail would be enough for the Kiwi Brevet?

Question - does the 20 use AAs or built in lithium?

What experience is out there with thudbusters on Fargos?

Feedback on travel length is what I really need, pretty much decided I will get one, just need to decide on travel.

Thinking the shorty will be perfect. Fargo has -8 degree stem, dumped, profile aero bars, large frame, I'm 77kg.

Run a rack most of the, time, so a seatbag (ie viscacha) is not really important to consider at this stage (but a quick search confirmed they can work)

There was a famous story I recall from my 4x4 days: This guy was travelling through the desert in his big, heavily modified Landcruiser 4x4, along with the other spares he carried, he carried a fullsized spare rear differential - in case he broke the one under the rig. Now, a rhetorical question - would he have busted a diff in the first place if he didn't have such a heavy load of spares?

I have a few different spares lists, depending on where I go and the trip length.

Apart from the norm:
section of chain and links/pins
Bolts and washers M4 M5 M6
chainring bolts
metre or two of nylon coated fishing tracer

Pretty colours there in the fall. Thanks for sharing, always nice to see trips and pics, especially in faraway lands!

What may also be different is the frame may be IS mount, and the fork may be post mount - two very different mounts and specific adaptors required to mount the caliper. Need to carry adaptors too, not feasible.

Hydraulic versus cable, hmm, people will have polarised experiences. Important to note the strengths and weaknesses of both systems, them make a decision based on the facts. One thing I see in the shop a LOT is hydro calipers with imbalances in piston stiction, mainly to do with poor maintenance (clean/lube pistons and seals, bleeding), poor alignment when replacing pads (then causing irregular pad wear and piston misalignment and excess stiction during retraction), contamination (dirt, air, water) - and this is just on bikes that tootle around local trails. Ive seen calipers do strange things once the pads are worn to 20% or so of material left. Add in the longer duty cycles and potential contamination of a long back-country tour with all manner of terrains, ups the potential for problems with a system that is performing marginally to start with. But in saying that, plenty people ultra race on hydro with no problem, certainly can't say anything against the solid history of hydro in that field.

Cables aren't all hunky either, the cables are subject to contamination with mud/water/dirt/corrosion, but can be reduced with a sealed kit from Gore or similar, but at least with many calipers you can adjust the pad reach independently (BB7 eg). Cables break. Not self adjusting like hydro. Differing modulation compared to hydro (with servo-wave or taper bore levers), But able to incorporate inline CX levers for drop bars.

These are just a few things I can think of during lunchbreak.

Some more thoughts on this subject. Leaning more towards keeping the same sized rotors front and rear, biggest reason is if a rotor gets bent up, you can interchange them to suit the best braking option, without an issue.

Decision made, 7" front and rear.

I've been using a Topeak MondoPack XL for a while now, quite impressed. 2L capacity. It's not the league of a Revelate seatbag, but it might suit some situations on duallies with a low seat height and a bit of travel.

http://www.topeak.com/products/Bags/mondopackxl_strap

I'm running Avid BB7R s on teh Fargo, with drop bars etc and about to upspec my rotors for next season. Only had 6" rotors in the spares bin when I built the bike, but yep really need to upsize. Same predicament, working through the options of 7" or 8". I haven't been happy with the braking on the 6" rotors.

Another thing to consider is the max rotor size recommended by the frame or fork manufacturer - ie 7" max for a SID, 8" for a REBA, and also clearance on the chainstay for rear rotor. I had to modify the non-drive side of our tandem for more clearance to fit a 7" rotor.

They certainly take a different approach to design. On my list for next pack.

Seeing you're in Melbourne, head down to backpackinglight down off little bourke st (up an alleyway) up near kathmandu, mountain designs and all the other 'outdoor stores'

Check out the range of Aarn packs, they make some specific cycling packs and there is a lot of design process in the product. Aarn is NZ based.

Pack length is related to your back length and height, when walking your load should be located on your hips, not the shoulders. Getting the right length pack and being fitted by a quality outfitter (as well as loading hte pack correctly) is crucial to comfort and performance. This of course changes on a bike as your back is in a different curve, weight distribution changes and loading points move.

I have a set routine each night that I follow, not had a problem yet. Wash nether regions only with a baby wipe, air dry, then talcum powder, sleep in loose fitting merino. Drape bibs and jersey over foodbag - 1 reason is to air them out, but also I've found the human musk keeps away ratty scavengers (in Australia anyways, other regions this may attract scavengers - YMMV). In the morning, re-apply powder to nether regions, also powder onto chamois. I wear the same bibs every day without washing them (up to a week) but would wash them if packing for longer than a week. Always carry a 2nd pair though. Merino jersey to keep smell down, but with synthetics will rinse out during day where possible to allow time to dry before afternoon - water topoff time etc, wash face at same time. Micro can of deodorant for times when have to mingle with society - shopping etc. I wear our shop kit, nothing top shelf.

I should clarify that this process/experience has been gathered/refined in Australian conditions, from -4 to 40 degrees celsius, humid days. No snow experience.

Ayups, Australian made, had a few sets for a coupla years now and just bulletproof. Race tested.

Sidenote: the pins are the same 2mm diameter as a 14G spoke, so if on a budget you can easily fab some with your leatherman.

I loctite the small end bolts in place to stop them walking out in really rough trails or long trips. Even carry an extra skewer at times.

Replace the stock tyre with a quality high pressure one, I chose a Hookworm. Run some sealant in the tube or go ghetto tubeless - I recall a trip with the stock tyre and it flatted - must have been riding for an hour or so as I can't see the tyre, so having an extra puncture measure keeps you moving forward.

It will be fine with a steel or ti freehub body, I've never seen marks on one of these when used with a single, a dingle (double single) or loose sprocket cassette.

Yes for Nutella, peanut butter, honey shots, dates are dense little energy packets. Licorice. All good fast yield energy.

Then bars - powerbars etc

oatmeal with dried fruit - I prepack with milk powder, sugar then rehydrate cold or hot.

Thanks so much for that. Email sent, hopefully he's not ignoring us from the west island... 

I've tried several times to contact Simon, no response. Tried to add the comment on the blog, no luck. Argh!