Yep, installed plenty over the years. There are quite a few different types of rivnut (also called nutsert, polynut) but bascially you want a design that has a pretty good shoulder on the outside face , as well as a large riveted shoulder inside the cavity. They come in different lengths to suit different thicknesses of material. You can make the tool yourself.

Alloy and steel rivnuts. You want steel for anything that is carrying heavy stuff, prep the holes with some anti-corrosion paint too when you install the rivnuts. Drill the holes just on size or slightly undersize, then tapfit to improve the solid fit.

As long as it's one of the 'tough' smartphones, can't see why not.

If it can survive constant vibration, harsh sun and heat, external saturation, wide operating temperatures, be fitted securely with a firm mount, not lose vital data when you switch between apps, then it might be suitable.

Be good for UL. But I'll stick with my dedicated items for each duty, may be heavier but I can't compromise until some manufacturer makes the 'Homer' of all outdoor adventure devices...

The towel material also seems to stay in place quite well - facial stubble keeps it locked on like velcro sil stuffsacks seem to slip around over the place. I don't sleep for long, but need it to be premium sleep, so I tend to go a bit heavier in this area for day after day recovery.

I'll have to measure it, but it's 2"+ at a guess. I'm running a prototype steel fork right now, but have a ti fork of my design coming. I prefer the lower position, was never happy with the stock fargo fork, it takes it closer to my road/cx bikes, Still great riding in the drops. My custom fork really changes the bike handling in a positive way - faster steering, better climbing etc. All subjective, but it just rides so much better to my mind. I'm 6', frame is a 56.5 top tube, 120mm thomson Elite X2 stem with the 17 degree drop.

46cm 'chippers, I've lobbed 30mm - 1 1/4" off the ends too.

I use an MSR dromedary (black) in the top of my older custom revelate framebag - bag has the full length top pocket, so the drom just gets shoved in there. Nothing else goes in there, except benign items like gels, bags of lollies - basically stuff that won't damage the drom. The red drom-lites just feel a little too thin for me, but I know plenty of people use them with no issues.

While the other half of the world is freezing, we are baking here! To keep you warm, picture bivvying next to a lake, hammocks, with just a silk liner for cover...bliss!

Enjoy!

http://troyszczurkowski.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/kiwi-brevet-prep-sub24-bikepack-lake.html

I'm working on teh same issue right now, DIY solution methinks.

Little DIY project - massage roller. Might help you get those legs pedalling harder, faster, stronger for longer!

Enjoy!

http://troyszczurkowski.blogspot.com.au/2014/01/kiwi-brevet-prep-recovery-diy-massager.html

Holidays are great - a chance to get out for a pedal AND complete a trip report.

With the kiwi coming up, a great opportunity came up to combine a sub24 and a 200km rando, slotted in nicely between family and work commitments.

Enjoy the read!

http://troyszczurkowski.blogspot.com.au/2013/12/kiwi-brevet-prep-sub24-bikepack-and.html

I took Mallet 3's to Alaska and Oregon (winter) with a pair of wolvhammers, very happy with the performance. There was plenty of portage, HAB and pushing on this trip to truly test them.

If I couldn't clip in, the broad platform and pins provided plenty of traction on the boot to pedal. A few twists on the pedal and the cleat was clear enough to clip in.

To service when I got home, remove the endcap, thread in the service port, flush clean with fresh grease from the grease gun, wipe off gungy grease from around spindle, remove service port and refit end cap, put pedals in box ready for next season/race.

Dogwoods, the light version, with a light powerstretch liner glove. When my hands get too warm, I just ride with them on top of the pogie. Would say I never really had an issue with moisture buildup, was always concious of keeping the layers just right to minimise moisture buildup anywhere.

Maybe you could modify yours to add in an adjustable vent. Wear less layers on your arms? Your body is trying to lose heat, maybe your arms are too warm and that hot blood is trying to radiate from your hands?

The new 45nrth pogies look the business...

Right on Nick, I like that we get to share the pics and reports from all over the world, and if you visit that country, you get local knowledge, even hook up for a pedal with members - cycling is truly universal!

That looks REALLY good. Really good. Nice work. With such an emphasis on seatbags - they aren't for every application - where you genuinely need to carry a heap of stuff (bulky).

I've got the monkey and the Gorilla. The monkey is great as it has the correct usb plug output to plug directly into the garmin without needing an adaptor (I bought the garmin 800 monkey version) It is small enough to put the solar panel on top of the helmet, the battery nearby. The monkey will not charge (from solar or wall socket) AND recharge your device, circuitry blocks it to one or the other.

The gorilla on the other hand, will recharge itself from the wall/solar AND recharge your device at the same time. I took just the battery pack to Iditarod this year, it lived in my jacket pocket for recharging lights (Exposure diablo) and other stuff. Rate it highly. Has two output ports, one for general usb out, another high output for 1A devices. 280 odd grams.

Yep, the lefty dyno hubs are junk for what I've seen spec and operation wise. Regular dyno hubs are great.

Solar and float battery is not perfect, but the maths add up to it being lighter than regular (non lefty) dyno hubs. BUT, important to know the strengths and weaknesses of all systems to help you make the choice for your application. I've got a dyno on my Fargo, and weighing up a SON for my snow race bike.

Less electrics and less complex the system the better.

Glad you enjoyed the read.

There is plenty of info on here, don't be afraid to ask, and don't be afraid to get out there!

We may have the greatest beaches, but you guys have the best forest riding...

I'll still commute to work through pretty much most things, except high fever, but common sense still gets applied. I guess I like to see how the body reacts (and the mind as well) in case I'm stricken with some ailment in the middle of a big ride, to learn the loose boundaries in a controlled environment.

Missing the warmth of fatbiking on the beach in summer? Here's something to keep you warm...

Day 2

http://troyszczurkowski.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/moreton-island-fatbiking-and-fatpack_28.html

With summer on its way here down under - while winter slowly closes it's cold claw everywhere else - I thought I'd share a trip a mate and I did last weekend. Ah, toasty warm fingers and toes, bivvying with just a silk sheet - beach riding bliss!

Enjoy...

Day 1

http://troyszczurkowski.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/moreton-island-fatbiking-and-fatpack.html

Nice, but I see the fall colour is almost all gone though

White stuff is great!

I used a teflon dry grease for my cables in Alaska, worked fine down to -30C. Phil tenacious oil is another option.

Yep, grease the contact area between bearing and frame in headset, and threads on the bb during assembly.

Pre-test your intended product in the freezer