I had a great time riding last weekend. I used bikeroutetoaster and combined with the OSM maps, ended up with a tasty mix of bridleway/back roads. My Grand Bois 700x28c shod Singular Osprey was great! Get out there, ride what you got.

Hi Alan,

Not sure if you got my entry. Are you updating the startlist soon?

david.

Updated

Hi,

This has to be one of the best combinations to go exploring with this winter. I've used it for everything from 24hr racing to riding the South Downs Way.

I've had the setup for about a year, and not used it since last winter. The hub has sealed cartridge bearings, and these have a long service life, they feel as they did when they were new.

- SON 20R centrelock disc hub, 32h, black
-Supernova E3 Triple, with multi mount (I mounted to my fork crown)

http://www.supernova-lights.com/en/products/e3_triple.html

http://www.nabendynamo.de/produkte/SON_20R.html

Photos: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjxTjr1Z

Let me know if you have any questions.

£200 posted

thanks,
david.

Simon, any idea what the specifics are of his setup?

I went on a singletrack group ride last night in the woods and it was a bit challenging with a dynamo. It did make it very exciting going over obstacles and ramps. Setup was SON Delux + Supernova E3 triple. I'm going to try the SON Edelux headlamp next.

/david.

I've got a dyno hub question in followup to the pivvay/keywee exchange in replies #813-817.

You describe that the power output of the SON 20R (AKA Delux) was too low at slow MTB speed for full brightness from a Supernova E3 Triple, hence you advise Alfine for off-road use.

But that hub is intended for 16" or 20" wheels. Smaller wheel = more RPM per a given speed, hence that hub is tuned for more efficient, but lower output at slower RPM. I suppose you might choose to use this hub on 700c for the added efficiency at the price of needing higher speed for a given power output.

But what about the SON 28S, the disc-brake hub for 'normal' 700C/29er wheels? Should we expect full power at 10-15kph from a Supernova E3 Triple, or not? Peter White's SON description leads one to believe you get full power above 5.5mph, but your experience seems to conflict, unless the difference is due to a 20R vs 28S on a 700C wheel. http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp

Did you go with 20R for efficiency, then switch to Alfine for brightness? Might you have gotten better brightness and efficiency (and durability) with the SON 28S in the first place? Or would you argue that the Alfine is more efficient than the SON 28S at 700C and slow MTB speeds. That would be interesting.

Thanks!  I'm trying to decide myself - I like the lifetime durability of the SON vs Alfine, but I want full brightness at 10-15KPH singletrack speed.

Good questions.

I have had the Alfine on my training road bike all winter. That means I'm generally running a bit faster than off-road. The wheel I had built around the Alfine was too heavy and not tubeless compatible. For that reason, I decided to build a new wheel for MTB-only usage, and I liked the idea of dropping 200g in the hub alone. I didn't have time to test the setup properly and only discovered the day before the race that there was a big difference in the speed at which the E3 lit up fully.

I understand that the 20R was originally for 20" wheels, but that stems from the days of Halogen lights. This is also the reason for the rename to Delux as they can power LED lights in a 700C wheel. However, I have a bit more rubber on my 700C rim (29") and that exacerbates the problem. The SON 28S would have been similar in performance and weight to the Alfine (based on epinions), so that was never an option. According to one test I read "somewhere", the 28S is as efficient as the Alfine (or at least the 3N-80), so this could be your answer to singletrack lighting. Remember, it's very important to be able to look around corners, something that's not possible with bar mounted lights.

If I were to choose for a dynamo setup, I would definitely use the Delux/20R in combination with the Edelux light for a TDR like race/ride. For more technical MTBing, I would use the Alfine + E3 triple, plus head light.

As far as durability goes, I can't say yet how good the Alfine is. Maybe after another wet/salty winter.

No problem. I have really enjoyed forgetting about batteries during the winter. I don't notice the drag on the Alfine with the light off, but there's a noticeable change when switched on. With the SON, I can't tell the difference between on and off. Quite a nice change.

Now, who's going to be the first to make a Lefty dynamo hub. I guess that's too much to ask. Did you ride the divide rigid Chris? After riding a 24h solo on rocky terrain rigid SS, I'd like some suspension.

Chris,

yes, the SON 20R has been renamed the Delux due to German law and marketing for big wheel usage (of which I forget the finer details).

I raced my first 24h at Finale Ligure in Italy with the E3 triple + SON Delux. Full power at 20kph (no speedo, but it wasn't slow). It's a techincal course and I struggled for enough light. I had a Dinotte 200AA headlight which was actually more useful.

The combination of the Alfine (DH-S501) and the E3 triple fires full at 13-15kph (verified with speedo in the winter).

Conclusion: I'm going to try the Edelux headlight with the SON Delux hub, and if that doesn't work well offroad, I'll build the SON Delux into my road wheel, and the Alfine for the MTB. There is a considerable difference in drag IMO.

David.

Does anyone know if any TDR2010 racers are using a dynamo hub & light?

Phil Fogg was using a Shimano Alfine dyno hub in combination with a Supernova E3 (likely triple). I've been using this combination on my winter training bike and it's very good. SON delux + E3 triple is less good, only firing up fully after 20kph. Stick to the E3/shimano combination for offroad.

Great, good intel.

Is this the kind of thread in a different guise? It looks to be the toughest thread they sell at least.

http://www.extremtextil.de/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38_40&products_id=957

cheers
david.

Cool, thanks. I was talking to someone during my last trip and they also mentioned the food cutting mats. I'll go shopping tomorrow.

Another question, what kind of thread are you all using? I'm using a good quality polyester gutterman thread, but looking at other outdoor products, they seems to be using a thicker gauge (jargon?) thread. Ideas/suggestions? I'm using a "denim" needle and it doesn't look like the eye is too big, but I'm sure it'll take more than the current thread.

Stitch length. I'm using 2-3, but again, looking at other outdoor products, it looks like a bit longer is common. My machine maxes at stitch length 4. I guess the less perforations make for less weakening of the fabric.

thanks.

Hi,

I've also just completed my first saddle bag. I can't seem to find any HDPE or similar where I live. As a result I'm a little down on side ways stability but find it less of a problem when It's more tightly loaded. Also, where did you get the non-slip fabric from?

cheers,
david.

http://picasaweb.google.com/davidkleinjan/Homebrew?authkey=Gv1sRgCKfDkPuj98jmRg#

I've been using a RAB Momentum jacket this past winter through everything from thunderstorms to -10C. I'm pretty slim and so the fit isn't quite right, but I can recommend the eVent fabric used. It's also no UL, but the protection it's provided is worth the 100g IMO. This is my second eVent jacket (after I lost my first RAB Drillium), and it's comfortable for longer whilst exercising.

Any other suggestions for a slimmer fit (eVent fabric ofcourse)?

Well, I figure I'll eventually get my bags (x4), but in the mean time, I've cut my losses (mainly time), and started making my own packs. The first framebag prototype is done and the next project is a seat bag. It's actually quite fun. I have a load of fabric and hardware arriving this week hopefully.

OK, cool. I have a full set (bar, seat, frame, fuel cell) so there's a bit more to make. I'm also on the other side of the Atlantic so shipping time is also something to bare in mind for me.

OK, good to hear production continues. I just can't imagine that my bags will arrive without paying the remainder.

All I can say is: "I can't wait!!"

OK, I am in the same boat. November the deposit was paid and it should have been shipped in January. The communication I have had has been very good, it's just a shame I don't know where I stand with my planning. If the bags aren't on time, I can't ride. Fingers crossed for a quick resolution.