That's awesome, and very encouraging for mas as I'm still planning/preparing for my first bikepacking trip...

thanks,
BM

thanks for the suggestions...  I tried a prototype in silnylon last night and it turned out kind of crappy.  I'll probably cut it up and reclaim the material for sutff sacks or something... 

I've the done math and figured in the frustration factor, and as cheap as dry bags are to purchase, it's just not worth the hassle.  MYOG projects only make sense to me if they are stupid easy to make or offer a significant saving in money.  Like buying $100 of materials to make a tent that would cost $300 - $400- yeah, the myog tent maybe crappier but that much savings is way worth it.  Alcohol stoves are a no brainer, being essentially free. 

So anyway, I'll pass on this one and just buy something...

Thanks again,
BM

I intend to make a couple of dry bags- one for the handlebars to strap to a sling, and another for use as a seat bag.

I have some silnylon scraps I can practice on (manipulating the fabric through the sewing machine to make a flat felled seam on a sack sounds tough) but I don't think silnylon is durable enough to last, nor is it water proof enough.  I don't have any intentions of going rafting or canoeing, but don't want my gear to get soaked if I get caught in a rain storm.  I have some dyneema, but I think that's a bit excessive (at $24/yd) for a dry sack.

Any suggestions as how to finish the bottom of the sack would also be appreciated.  So far I've been making all of my stuff sacks with squared out bottoms and french seams to hide the fabric edges.  I don't know how a squared out bottom would translate to a dry bag with a flat felled seam.  Maybe it would be ok..  I dunno.  then the last part would be seam sealing...

anyway- thanks,
BM

You have to do a little more layout, but here is what I do:

I wish I would have check back before I started my gas tank project.  I just finished it they day after you posted this.  I didn't have any binding materials on hand and was antsy to get it done so I just did the french seam again, but sewing it like that in all those tight corners (which on something that small is as if it's nothing but tight corners) was a slow going pain in the behind.

I'll definitely try to remember this technique for my next project.

Thanks,
BM

I was just wondering what you guys all do to finish the raw edges of the fabric on your myog projects.  I just recently made a frame bag (not 100% finished, needs velcro- will post pics later) where I used a french seam (I think that's what it's called) to hide all the raw edges.  I planned for having a 1/2" seam allowance, and then first sewed the bag right side out at a little less than 1/4" in from the edges.  then I turned it inside out and sewed it on the 1/2" line.  then when I turned it right side out again, all the raw edges were hidden.  This was a bit of a pain, as the fabric in the corners got kind of thick and difficult to make look right.  From the outside it looks ok enough for me though.  For smaller projects like a gas tank, I think this would be very difficult to do.  I've noticed on some commercial products they hide the edge with grosgrain ribbon, but that sounds like it would be a bit on the difficult side too...  Anyway- thoughts and pics would be appreciated.

BM

I've tried a handful of saddles over the years and they all have causes a pretty much equal amount of discomfort and numbness, so I just settled on the lightest one of the bunch- selle italia slr.  I still get significant numbness in that "special part of the male body" when pedaling seated for more than 15mins at a time.  It's not an issue mtnbiking since I'm out of the saddle so much.  Though, now that I'm looking to take up bikepacking, I'm thinking something more comfortable is in order.  I'll try my lbs and see if they have loaners...but as a recovering weight weenie, it'll be hard to swallow a seat that's three times or more the weight of what I'm running now...

thanks for giving that suggestion...

BM

If you are handy with a soldering iron you can take this myog approach - http://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKAD2B

On instructables they have instructions for modding it to take 4 AA's to increase it's capacity.  Others convert it to run on lipo or li-ion batteries (dunno for sure) and add small solar panels to help keep it charged.  I've looked at the builds, and I'm very skeptical of their tiny solar panels being able to generate any significant amount of juice.

BM

Seriously, what was on his gear list?

Fishing pole, tarp, saw?

BM

Very cool.  Approx. 5' x 5' isn't very big though.  Do you intend for this tarp to just cover your upper half and let the bivy protect your legs?

BM

Hey, just wondering here.  What's the main difference between The Sling and The Harness?  I mean, the harness costs twice as much but is it twice as good?  Does it hold twice the junk?  Can you use the pockets with either setup?  And what kind of drybag do you need to use with that?  I imagine it would have to be a longer and skinnier one than a normal short fat bag.

Thanks,
BM

Hi BM,
 Just thought I'd offer my two penneth worth on a few points; I guessed the width by measuring between my legs while on the bike and comparing that to the widest item I intended to use but in reality you can control the packed width by the way you pack the bag, it's not been an issue at all and in hindsight I'd make it wider.
 I made my bag using a felled seam (think that's the same as a French seam) and it was a nightmare, getting in to the corners neatly to sew the last seam was really hard, next time I won't bother, I used the Thru Hiker Dyneema too and it seems more than man enough for the job without felled seams.
 Hope this helps,
   Matt

thanks- I think I'm getting ready to start on it here soon.  I originally didn't buy any bright colored material for the insides, but it's such a good idea I put of construction until I get some.  And, I forgot to order a waterproof zipper for it, so I'll get that stuff on its way and I'll start construction.  I'll post pics as I go.  Also, I didn't really take into account the movement of my suspension accurately, so I had to do a bit of a rethink in one area.  I don't want ot make it too complicated, but I don't wand the movement of my rear triangle to wear a hole in the bag either.... 

BM

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see a cook kit in there.  Are you eating no-cook foods?  How far apart are resupply points?

I really like your setup - well, except for the fixie part.  Dunno if I'm man enough to ride a fixie off road...

BM

I totally dig it.  I had wondered myself about using the water bottle bolts to help secure the frame bag.  What material did you use for the seat-tube reinforcement plates?  Were you able to sew it inside out, and then turn it right side out with those reinforcement plates in there?  I had intended to do what I think is called a french hem/seam deal on mine.  I've done it on a few stuff sacks so far, and it's worked really nicely to hide the cut edges of the fabric.  If you don't know- you first sew it right side out with a small seam allowance, trimming if necessary, then turn it inside out and sew again hiding that raw/cut edge, and then you turn it right side out again to see the finished product. 

I just ordered a yard of Dyneema from Thru-Hiker for my frame bag project.  Coincidentally, a good friend of mine is sending me a C'dale 29-er frame too, for which I'll be also making a frame bag.  I had originally intended to cut each panel out individually but I like how you folded up your design.  I'm also going to order some bright yellow ripstop for the liner.  I can totally see how that will help with finding junk in the bottom of the bag.

I do have one question- how do you figure out the width of the bag?  I mean, how do you estimate how much the bag will bulge in the middle over the width of the strips that go against the frame tubes?  I also notice you did not include a center divider / bulge limiter thingy.  My first project will be for my blur xc.  The TT is real low for the good stand-over height, so the frame bag will be mostly in between my calves.  My knees don't really drop below the TT while pedaling.  It also doesn't really have that narrow of a q-factor.

How much material did you end up using for your project (not counting the re-do).  Like I said I ordered a yard, and I figure that would be plenty with lots left over, but now I'm getting that C'dale frame and that will end up being a bigger bag than the one for the Blur. 

The other design ideas that I've seen, that I would also like to incorporate into my design is to have some mesh pockes.  Maybe on on the inside, and another on the outside...

Sorry for all the questions...

Thanks,
BM

Thanks for the tips.  I've seen that one with the bike upside down before.  Is that with a 5x8 tarp? 

In that first one you posted, I like how you used the front wheel to hold up the back end of the ridgeline.  I'll have to try that.  Seems easier than scrounging around for an appropriate stick, which can be hard to find in the desert. 

My three oldest kids (6, 8, and 10yr old) camped out with me under the tarp last night.  It was a pretty cool breezy night so I wasn't worried about bugs being a problem.  Overall it was a pretty good experience and the kids had a great time.  The temp dropped to the mid thirties according to wunderground.com, but there was some frost at 5:30 in the morning, so I don't know if it really got any colder.  I think I might be a cold sleeper, as I was getting chilled in my 30 degree bag.  When I woke to answer nature's call, I went in the house and grabbed my puffy jacket and my balaclava and slept for anther two hours like a baby.

Oh, and I've made my bathtub floor and will order the rest of the materials for my modified meteor bivy design sometime today.

BM

Like the set-up using the bike. Creativity's a plus...thinking beyond the standard configs based on terrain/features. Right away I'm eyeing the rock wondering about a more wind-sheltered setup.

Foam sleeping pads rock.

Why use a ground sheet with a bivy bag? To my thinking any bivy bag worth the description is totally waterproof. For that matter, you don't need the overhead tarp either...

Just ribbin' ya, tarp shelters are great for hanging out, and they're fun to build. I'm digging my Black Diamong Bipod bivy, with or without stakes. Virtually no setup, coffin footprint. Still, a small tarp is nice for those lazy days or when you need respite from the sun. I'd run a small one even with a bivy bag, depending.

Stay stoked!

I'm making the smd meteor bivy, so no, it's not waterproof.  It's more for bug protection, though the foot end of it will be made of some waterproof breathable material (momentum 90) so if there is blowing rain, I can afford to get my head under the tarp further and let my feet get a little wet.

Not that we get a lot of rain- but I could see myself checking the forecast and heading out to play if it is going to rain.  When you live somewhere this dry, you look forward to the rain.  It's kind of a "grass is greener" kinda deal.

I'm still not totally sure what to do about ground protection for my BA IAC pad...  good sleep is really important to me.  I've spent many nights on those ccf pads, and they are just way to painful for me.  My back isn't in that good of condition, and I'm a side sleeper, so the pressure points on my hips are brutally painful.  All I'd have to do wrong is miss one goat-head or cactus needle, and I'd be on the ground in worse shape than on a ccf pad.  Finding a fixing a leak in the dark, while tired, does not sound like something I want to do.  I thought about getting one of those foam groundsheets, 1/8" thick or so.  adds a lot of bulk, but at least they are not very heavy...  I dunno.  Stuff to think about.

And with regards to the wind, this is the forecast for tonight, and it's been like this for about two weeks straight.  some days not as bad as others, but it's just blows here "Mostly clear. Areas of blowing sand and blowing dust. Visibility one quarter mile or less at times. Lows 44 to 51. Winds west 25 to 35 mph with gusts to 60 mph."

BM

Pitching a tarp can be a pain in the ass develop character, patience and wisdom.

I'll keep that in mind...  Anyway, I'll try it again in a couple of days.  I need a ground sheet and bivy before I take my BAIAC and sleeping bag out there for a trial run...  Even so, I'm nervous about cactus needles, goat heads and the like poking holes in my sleeping pad... 

I used the trunk line method based on a youtube video I saw.  I first string the trunk line and pull it tight, then use prusik loops to tension the tarp.  I guess the thinking is you can tension the trunk like a lot tighter than you could the tarp w/o the risk of tearing or popping stitches.  In reality, I don't know if it makes a difference, except this method requires that I have at least 25' of cord to set up.

I still would like to find some poles that I could use to pull out the mid panel guyouts to give more interior space and maybe keep the tarp off me.  What I really need to do, if find a balance between head room and wind resistance.

thanks,
BM

I've been slowly gearing up for backpacking/bikepacking and part of my setup is an 8x10 rectangular tarp that I recently made out of some uncoated ripstop.  I'll be doing a diy silicone job here shortly, probably after I make my bivy floor so I can do them both at the same time.  I picked up about 10 or more yards of it at a local Walmart on the 2nds counter for I think $2.  No, not $2/yd, $2 for the whole bolt!  So, even if I ruin it and end up throwing it away and making a new one out of real silnylon, it's a experience under my belt.

So, after a few test pitches in the backyard I thought it's time to take it out into the wild and give it a go...  I learned a few things along the way- #1- an 8x10 tarp takes a lot of real estate to set up.  #2- buried rocks suck.  At least now I know what to look for.  If there's a small rock sticking out of the ground (baby head, kinda), chances are good it's like an iceberg, in that there's a lot more of it a few inches underground.  #3- paracord may not be the best guyline material.  The stuff is like a rubber band...  I wonder if I will have better luck with some real guyline, like that spectra/dyneema stuff.  #4- look before swiping that itchy feeling off of your shins (see pics for more info on that one)...

I couldn't find any decently strong sticks to try and tie some line to my center panel tie outs.  I would have liked to see if it helped more with wind resistance.  I can easily see the wind blowing it down to make contact w/ my sleeping bag/bivy with it the way it is.  I did pick that location because those rocks would help block some of the wind to begin with...

My location-


My junk.  I really like my black diamond hydration pack.  It's kinda small for my torso/frame size, but it holds more than it looks like it should, and then when it's full I just lash junk onto the compression straps on the back.


Here area few pictures of it pitched using a "trunk line".  funny, since there are not tree trunks to tie it around.  Maybe some time later I'll try to find to suitable joshua trees to tie it to...but for now, some tent stakes and my bike seat seemed to get the job done, although it's still kinda low.  That might be such a bad thing though, if it helps with wind stability.  There's one absolute truth about the desert- the wind blows; both figuratively and literally.


From looking at this pic, I realize I should have pulled that corner a bit tighter.


It's a beautiful morning though.






used a rock to help that stake stay put, where there was that underground rock.  I tried moving it around as much as I could to find some good dirt, but nothing was available in the reach my my guyline.


Here's what I get for not looking before wiping that ithcy object off of my shin.


I applaud those that can throw a tarp up in under 5mins.  I fiddled around for almost an hour with it today.  Maybe next time will go faster.
Comments and suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
BM

Sorry- I don't know the specific internals of the talas mechanism.  I specialty is in the dampers, not necessarily the air springs, and especially not travel adjust mechanisms...

Sounds like something broke in the talas mechanism.  It's like a Swiss watch in there.  Fox is the master of stuffing 10lbs of crap in 5lb sacks...

My personal preference is to stay away for all travel adjust / lockout mechanisms.  They don't agree with me.  I like fiddling with my bike as little as possible during a ride.  Checking my tires and lubing my chain is enough.  So, when I ride, I get the shocks set somewhere that works good, and I leave it alone, forever.  Oh yeah, and that goes for the seatpost too.  When I've messed w/ lockouts and travel adjusters for climbing, I ALWAYS seem to forget to switching it back on the decent.  And let me tell you, dropping in and realizing your are locked out and/or the fork is set to 80mm sucks.

So, bottom line- make a call to your nearest Fox service center...  Chances are it's nothing you could fix on your own anyway.  At some point, you'd need some sort of specialized tool or something.

BM

If a stanchion is scared and comprimises a seal in your fork, a pump won't help. Same goes with your shock.

Just an FYI, no fork that I know holds any pressure on the stanchion tube.  That seal is mainly just a grease/oil seal to hold in lubrication oil, and maybe damping oil on an open bath system, but not one w/ a cartridge damper.  The air piston normally rides on the ID of the stanchion tube, having both a positive and negative spring.

The rear shock, otoh, is another story.  The negative spring seals on the od of the damper strut.  So, if that gets scuffed, the very best case is that the negative spring will bleed off and you will suffer a terrible ride until you get it fixed.  but if you are running something like a fox float, w/ a self setting negative spring, every stroke will bleed off  just a bit more positive pressure and pretty soon you will be on the bump stop (which on a fox shock is just an oring, or at least used to be, dunno what's in their latest and greatest products)...

BM

Another way of thinking about the shock pump issue is to bring a stint.  If you are lucky enough to be or know a machinist just have them create an aluminium stint to replace the shock that can turn your bike into a hardtail in an emergency.  That way the tour is not over; however, it is one more thing to carry going back to my previous comment.

Like this? http://www.sicklines.com/2011/04/01/video-straitline-quicky-stiffy/

BM