If you're concerned whether your pedals will survive the Divide replace them.  It might not be necessary but better safe than sorry.

You can get plastic fork and dropout spacers from any bike shop free of charge.  The factories use them when shipping new bikes and most shops throw them out with the shipping container.

Those aftermarket walking foot attachments aren't worth the investment.  They might work with light fabrics and be useful for tarps, tents, quilts, etc but they aren't robust enough for bikepacking bags.

I just need the aluminum body - no optics, driver, or wires needed. Li ion or AA.  If you have an old nonfunctioning unit I'd like to buy it. I'd also consider working units if the price is right.

She did it.  I'm not sure what her official time is but it looks like she finished under 14 hours.  Very impressive.

The 301 is an excellent straight stitch machine and worth buying if the price is right.  It has all metal gears and is powerful enough to handle several layers of the fabrics and webbing you'll use for your bags.  Here's a brief review which might be helpful.  http://blog.sew-classic.com/2009/03/14/classic-singer-301-301a-vintage-sewing-machine-review.aspx

The Singer 15-91's are excellent machines that will handle the webbing and fabrics we use for bag making.  They can often be found for $50-75 in the Denver area so the price on the one you provided the link to is high.  If you have relatives or friends in Phoenix put the word out that you're looking for an older machine.   Lots of people have classic machines which they no longer use and would be willing to sell for for very little or even give away.  If you have some free time check out Goodwill and the thrift shops in your area. They often have older machines available at reasonable prices. 

These threads might be helpful:
http://www.bikepacking.net/forum/index.php/topic,4860.0.html
http://www.bikepacking.net/forum/index.php/topic,5219.0.html

If you have never used a sewing machine before try to find a relative or friend who has and get some basic lessons.  It's not difficult but can be frustrating for a complete beginner.  Good luck.

Thanks.  Here are a couple more sites with decent gear reviews which might be useful, no bike content.
http://www.backpackgeartest.org/
http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/reviews/index.html

A quick update for several of you who have asked when certain items would be back in stock.
I made a small run of front carriers, top tube bags, and medium saddlebags last week to fill existing orders and have several extra for sale.  This week will be spent making custom gear for AZT racers but I'll start building up the inventory again and will have large and small saddlebags available shortly.

 

Do you need a compression sack to reduce the diameter of the load?

It's always best to use two or more waterproof bags when carrying down bags or quilts.  I'd replace the water-resistant compression sack with a waterproof dry bag or compression sack and then make the inner bag out of the fabric that you're most comfortable working with because both can be made waterproof. 

I'm not a racer and use a sling, pocket, and top tube bag for most of my trips.  The sling carries my camping gear -down quilt, bivy, and light tarp- in a dry bag and the pocket is for gel, energy bars, and misc food.  It also has a seperate internal pocket for my camera and rain gear can be carried under the straps for easy access if the weather is unpredictable.  The top tube bag is for tools, patch kit, oil, and tubes.  I don't use gps and carry my maps and compass in a side pocket on my frame pack.  I usually have a simple Cateye computer on the bars to track mileage but the battery died and I haven't needed it for local rides.

You should make one.  It's easier than most people think and they really are versatile.  I've been using this one for a couple years comfortably in temperatures from the 20's to 50's.  It's made from the same fabric SlimJim used, 11.5oz of 900 fill down, and has 1 3/4" high baffles.  It weighs 21.5oz, fits into 5.5 x 12" stuff sack, and cost around $100 to make.  The small hood works great for side and stomich sleepers. 

The first issue of a new adventure cycling magazine is out and looks promising.
http://issuu.com/bunyanvelo/docs/bunyanvelo01

Silnylon is too frail for bikepacking.  It's good for stuff sacks and tarps but just too fragile for bags.  Cuben, X-Pac VX07, or TX07 are waterproof and better choices for ultralight gear. 

Closed cell foam will provide enough support to hold the shape.  If you crash and your junk hits the rigid plastic your day and future family life might be ruined. 

This site has the info you're interested in:
http://zenstoves.net/
Here's the page on the different fuels available:
http://zenstoves.net/Fuels.htm#Alcohol

As to the poisonous nature of the fuels..... if you're cooking outside it's a non-issue for most of us.  Just don't bath in it or drink it.

If you're making a tarp, build it with reinforced attachment points around the perimeter like a commercial model.  They'll be stronger than any temporary attachment system and will not slip or damage the fabric.  It you still want a temporary system check out the Holdon clips that Rockywoods sells.
http://www.rockywoods.com/Hardware-Zippers/Mini-Holdon-instant-eyelets-Black
They will work on a hemmed tarp but could damage one made from lightweight fabric.  You can prevent problems by placing a small piece of heavier fabric between the Holdon and the tarp.
http://blogpackinglight.wordpress.com/2011/11/20/holdon-tent-clips-twea/

Great job.  That green 1.1oz fabric that Scott sells is really nice and a bargain at $3.20 a yard.  Was this your first time working with down?

If you read the description of the cordura fabrics that are offered by Rockywoods and others you'll see that most are "quick drying, and highly water repellent".   Cordura is really tough and the heavily coated versions will keep the water out for quite awhile but aren't waterproof like X-Pac.   If want to save some money and practice, check out packcloth.  It's lightweight, easy to work with, and is available with a urethane coating and DWR.  Try to find a higher denier version.  OWFI offered a 550 denier ripstop version at one time which was pretty nice for framepacks. Give them a call and see if they have any left.

Hammock forums has a tread which lists most of the major venders.
http://www.hammockforums.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4182

You can also find fabric on Ebay although the prices aren't always that great.

Good luck.